Our final day in Venice dawned, and we had an earlier start than usual, with the whole business of checking out from the convent to be completed. That done, we made for the Doge's Palace (officially known as the Palazzo Ducale). The Doge was the head of state in the Venetian Republic, while it lasted, and the palace is located beside the Basilica, just off St Mark's Square.
The Palace contains not only the official residence of the Doge, but also the state chambers, for the different meeting rooms and chambers, as well as the Republic's courtrooms. The tour allows visitors to see all these areas, with their impressive paintings on the walls and the gilded decorations. The only downside was that the palace was crowded with lots of tour groups (in various languages), so in some of the rooms there was a bit of a crush.
Near the end of the tour, you move across the Bridge of Sighs, an enclosed bridge high up, which leads over a canal to the prisons. None of the cells were very big, and if you suffer from claustrophobia, then it isn't the place for you. After the tour we had some free time before heading off to the airport.
So for my last few hours in Venice, I set off on the riverbus and crossed to the Salute church. This was a plague church, built to give thanks for the ending of a plague, and is completely circular. The central section of the church is roped off, but you can get right around the outer edge of the interior. From there, I passed the Guggenheim Collection of modern art – it just isn't my thing, and went over Accademie to check my emails again in my favourite internet cafe. Next on the agenda was a wander up towards the Rialto, for the last bit of window and stall shopping, then across to get lunch in the place we had eaten dinner on the first night. Again, it was of course pizza, and was most enjoyable. I still wasn't getting fed up of the salami pizzas, so that did me for lunch.
Then it was off down the Grand Canal again on the riverbus, to Accademie, where I set off back towards the convent, spending the last half hour of so people watching and enjoying an ice cream in the sunshine in the square outside St Barnabas, waiting on Indiana Jones to appear. Sadly, he didn't show up during my time, so I headed back to the convent.
Our departure was as our arrival, in that we returned back up the Grand Canal to the bus station, and then on out to the airport. The flight home was rather good, and I managed to get a good bit of reading done during the flight. Oh, and the hot panini with ham and cheese was very hot! With a good drive up the M1, I was home for just before midnight, and glad to be home!
On reflection, the study trip was well worth it, giving us experiences of meeting people from different backgrounds and experiences (Lutherans from Germany and Tanzania, Anglicans from Italy, Tanzania and Nigeria, the Waldensian pastor), as well as showing us at firsthand the various styles of church architecture and the periods of church history. A big thank you must go to the principal for arranging the trip and some finance towards it, and also to Alan for arranging the meetings and activities with his contacts in Venice.
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 15, 2006
Tuesday, March 14, 2006
Venice Part Nine
Our last evening in Venice was marked by going for dinner, and we returned to the same place we had been to on Saturday. The food was again excellent, and of course, it had to be pizza! I started with the same salami pizza from Saturday, but added peppers. The others got a more fancy one which, among other things, had a fried egg on it. I couldn't bring myself to try it though.
We went for a bit of a walk and stopped for coffee. I'm not sure what notion took us, but we decided to sit outside. Those actually drinking coffee may have been heated by it, but for me, orange fanta only made me colder! That done, we then returned to the convent - our earliest return, but on the last night we're all just a bit tired.
Our flight tomorrow isn't until the evening, so we're going to have a bit of time to wander for the final time. Then home again!
We went for a bit of a walk and stopped for coffee. I'm not sure what notion took us, but we decided to sit outside. Those actually drinking coffee may have been heated by it, but for me, orange fanta only made me colder! That done, we then returned to the convent - our earliest return, but on the last night we're all just a bit tired.
Our flight tomorrow isn't until the evening, so we're going to have a bit of time to wander for the final time. Then home again!
Venice Part Eight
This morning we were up and off again to the Institute, so the boat journey was the same as yesterday. For a bit of variety, we stood on the opposite side, but this meant that we were on the seaward side going round the islands. The wind would have cut corn, and was trying to go through us for a short cut, to coin a couple of phrases! So my photo-taking was cut short as we sought some shelter. En route, the principal talked about the Waldensians, in order to prepare us for the morning's session.
We were joined by the Anglican Chaplain and the Waldensian pastor, who told us about their churches' histories and how they came to be in Venice. We were then able to ask some questions to find out a bit more. What was really interesting was the Waldensian pastor said the debate within his mind was whether Italy was like the Galatians (in that they had heard and known the gospel but had forgotten it and been led astray by outward things), or like the Athenians (in that they had never heard the gospel and were a religious but godless society). But either way, Italy, like Ireland, needs the gospel.
Sadly we weren't staying for lunch, so after a quick reception, we set off for some sightseeing. We visited the Cathedral of St Peter of Castello. This is the 'middle' cathedral, as the oldest is on Torchello, one of the other islands, and the present cathedral is St Mark's Basilica. Inside, like the others, there were a lot of altars, statues and paintings, including one remarkable painting of what can only be described as the 'Bling' Madonna and Child, due to the shiny silver necklaces they're both wearing. Again, the 'priests' line got us in for free, although the woman raised an objection to the principal's wife, until it was explained we were Anglicans!
We then headed to St Mark's Square, to visit the 'new' cathedral, St Mark's Basilica. This one is free to get into for everyone (not just priests and seminarians), but the best bits are all separate pay-in sections. First, we went up the steep steps in the entrance hall, which brings you to the museum and gallery. A man was waiting at the top to relieve us of 3 euro, but it was well worth it. The vies, both inside the church, and outside on the balcony overlooking the square were worth the money.
The basicila's interior is covered in mosaics, from the top of the five domes to the floor, depicting bible stories and saints, which the floor is made up of intricate tiled patterns.
It is called St Mark's because the Venetians stole the body of St Mark from Alexandria (Egypt) in the 9th century and placed it under the high altar. So seemingly the Venetians haven't heard of the modern Biblical criticism, which would insist that there wasn't really a man called Mark who wrote his gospel. Behind the high altar (entry 1.50 euro), there is a huge altar piece of gold and gems, which contains about 2000 jewels, and features images from the life of Jesus, the disciples, saints, and even contains the story of the theft of St Mark by the Venetians!
We then moved out into one of the side alleys off St Mark's for some coffee before splitting up for some free time. So I checked my emails, and wandered up to Rialto, purchasing some souviners for the parents and such like. The riverbus again was useful in returning me to St Baranba's and the convent.
We were joined by the Anglican Chaplain and the Waldensian pastor, who told us about their churches' histories and how they came to be in Venice. We were then able to ask some questions to find out a bit more. What was really interesting was the Waldensian pastor said the debate within his mind was whether Italy was like the Galatians (in that they had heard and known the gospel but had forgotten it and been led astray by outward things), or like the Athenians (in that they had never heard the gospel and were a religious but godless society). But either way, Italy, like Ireland, needs the gospel.
Sadly we weren't staying for lunch, so after a quick reception, we set off for some sightseeing. We visited the Cathedral of St Peter of Castello. This is the 'middle' cathedral, as the oldest is on Torchello, one of the other islands, and the present cathedral is St Mark's Basilica. Inside, like the others, there were a lot of altars, statues and paintings, including one remarkable painting of what can only be described as the 'Bling' Madonna and Child, due to the shiny silver necklaces they're both wearing. Again, the 'priests' line got us in for free, although the woman raised an objection to the principal's wife, until it was explained we were Anglicans!
We then headed to St Mark's Square, to visit the 'new' cathedral, St Mark's Basilica. This one is free to get into for everyone (not just priests and seminarians), but the best bits are all separate pay-in sections. First, we went up the steep steps in the entrance hall, which brings you to the museum and gallery. A man was waiting at the top to relieve us of 3 euro, but it was well worth it. The vies, both inside the church, and outside on the balcony overlooking the square were worth the money.
The basicila's interior is covered in mosaics, from the top of the five domes to the floor, depicting bible stories and saints, which the floor is made up of intricate tiled patterns.
It is called St Mark's because the Venetians stole the body of St Mark from Alexandria (Egypt) in the 9th century and placed it under the high altar. So seemingly the Venetians haven't heard of the modern Biblical criticism, which would insist that there wasn't really a man called Mark who wrote his gospel. Behind the high altar (entry 1.50 euro), there is a huge altar piece of gold and gems, which contains about 2000 jewels, and features images from the life of Jesus, the disciples, saints, and even contains the story of the theft of St Mark by the Venetians!
We then moved out into one of the side alleys off St Mark's for some coffee before splitting up for some free time. So I checked my emails, and wandered up to Rialto, purchasing some souviners for the parents and such like. The riverbus again was useful in returning me to St Baranba's and the convent.
Monday, March 13, 2006
Venice Part Seven
Just one item of business to report on since the last update. Tonight was our 'gala dinner', which was basically a thank you to those who have helped us and hosted us over our stay. So we had Lady Clark, and the Anglican chaplain and his wife, and Roberto and Jurg from the Ecumenical Institute. The meal was great, with my first course being pasta, meat and tomato sauce, and the second grilled sea bass with thin potatoes on top.
I was sitting beside Jurg, and learnt a lot about the German Lutheran system, and their education system. But then the bext topic of conversation began, as we discussed international football, especially the glory of Northern Ireland's victory over England in September! He also remembered one night we were leading 1-0 in a game Germany had to win, and it wasn't until the 70th minute they started scoring, with the game ending up 4-1 or 5-1.
However, on a less pleasant note, I have gone a full day without eating pizza! No doubt I'll remedy that by this time tomorrow. Now it's getting late and I'm ready for bed, before tomorrow's excitement and adventure.
I was sitting beside Jurg, and learnt a lot about the German Lutheran system, and their education system. But then the bext topic of conversation began, as we discussed international football, especially the glory of Northern Ireland's victory over England in September! He also remembered one night we were leading 1-0 in a game Germany had to win, and it wasn't until the 70th minute they started scoring, with the game ending up 4-1 or 5-1.
However, on a less pleasant note, I have gone a full day without eating pizza! No doubt I'll remedy that by this time tomorrow. Now it's getting late and I'm ready for bed, before tomorrow's excitement and adventure.
Venice Part Six
Just to prove this trip is not a holiday, we set off this morning to the Ecumenical Study Institute. to facilitate all our travel until we go home, we bought the 3-day tourist travel pass, which means we can hop on and off the riverbus at will (although the hopping off will only be done at the stops!). The journey to the Institute took forty minutes, taking us around most of the main island.
Being an island with no vehicles able to go past the car park on the landside edge of the city, everything you can think of that depends on vehicles is done by boat. Hence the funeral hearse boat we saw on Saturday. Today we saw the other necessities - police, ambulance, postman and DHL, all on their own boats. We even saw a coffin being moved, on a trolley rather similar to the ones used to transport televisions and fruit. The other main thing is that there's no bin lorry! Rubbish is collected by refuse collectors with trolleys, then transferred to barges along the sides of the canals.
So anyway, we arrived at the Institute, and were offered coffee. Once again, I had to refuse - I think people here think I'm a rather odd creature for not drinking coffee, and refusing alcohol all the time... We then had a short session with the principal, learning about the role of Venice through the centuries, and particularly the Byzantine influence. We then moved into another room where we met some of the Institutes's students. They come from around the world, including Germany, Ecuador, Congo and Tanzania, and there are Coptics, Lutherans, Anglicans, Orthodox and Catholics.
At lunch, we were divided out round the dining room, with two people at each table round the outsid eof the room. Thankfully, they made sure we were with people who could speak English. My dining partner was Iohannes, a Lutheran pastor from Tanzania. It was interesting to share with him our experiences, and learn a bit about the Lutheran church in Africa.
During the coffee time after the meal (a first course of pasta, which we thought was the meal... then chicken, potatoes and a huge variety of vegetables, then a choice of two desserts - apple crumble and a red fruit salad), Canon John, the Anglican from Tanzania gave us a tour of the college. His room was much larger than ours are in Dublin, then he showed us the vineyards (the Institute grows its own grapes and makes its own wine), poultry farm, boatshed, chapel, chapter room and church.
We then left the Institute, and split up for an afternoon of free time. So I went round by St Mark's Square (by-passing it as we're going there tomorrow), and browsed some of the shops on the way to Rialto and on towards the ghetto. Having the riverbus ticket, I headed down to the canal back to Rialto, and checked out the market stalls and shops. Then back on the riverbus to Accademie, where I wandered and checked emails, and chatted on msn to Lynsey!
After that, I was busting for the toilet, so used the pay loo under Accademie bridge. It was a scandalous rip-off of one euro admittance, but I felt it was worth is... staying longer than the time switch thought appropriate for a stay in the loo. Thankfully it came on again without any problem by flicking the switch again!
Having still some time free, I hopped onto a passing riverbus, and journeyed to the east, where I hadn't been yet. Tyhe sunset was rather good, and I hope I got some good photos of the red sky behind the towers and spires. then I transferred to one coming back the other way, except it decided to go round the back of Dursduro, but with my trusty map and sense of direction, I was able to find my way back to the convent - and probably with a shorter walk than the stop I intended to get off at!
Being an island with no vehicles able to go past the car park on the landside edge of the city, everything you can think of that depends on vehicles is done by boat. Hence the funeral hearse boat we saw on Saturday. Today we saw the other necessities - police, ambulance, postman and DHL, all on their own boats. We even saw a coffin being moved, on a trolley rather similar to the ones used to transport televisions and fruit. The other main thing is that there's no bin lorry! Rubbish is collected by refuse collectors with trolleys, then transferred to barges along the sides of the canals.
So anyway, we arrived at the Institute, and were offered coffee. Once again, I had to refuse - I think people here think I'm a rather odd creature for not drinking coffee, and refusing alcohol all the time... We then had a short session with the principal, learning about the role of Venice through the centuries, and particularly the Byzantine influence. We then moved into another room where we met some of the Institutes's students. They come from around the world, including Germany, Ecuador, Congo and Tanzania, and there are Coptics, Lutherans, Anglicans, Orthodox and Catholics.
At lunch, we were divided out round the dining room, with two people at each table round the outsid eof the room. Thankfully, they made sure we were with people who could speak English. My dining partner was Iohannes, a Lutheran pastor from Tanzania. It was interesting to share with him our experiences, and learn a bit about the Lutheran church in Africa.
During the coffee time after the meal (a first course of pasta, which we thought was the meal... then chicken, potatoes and a huge variety of vegetables, then a choice of two desserts - apple crumble and a red fruit salad), Canon John, the Anglican from Tanzania gave us a tour of the college. His room was much larger than ours are in Dublin, then he showed us the vineyards (the Institute grows its own grapes and makes its own wine), poultry farm, boatshed, chapel, chapter room and church.
We then left the Institute, and split up for an afternoon of free time. So I went round by St Mark's Square (by-passing it as we're going there tomorrow), and browsed some of the shops on the way to Rialto and on towards the ghetto. Having the riverbus ticket, I headed down to the canal back to Rialto, and checked out the market stalls and shops. Then back on the riverbus to Accademie, where I wandered and checked emails, and chatted on msn to Lynsey!
After that, I was busting for the toilet, so used the pay loo under Accademie bridge. It was a scandalous rip-off of one euro admittance, but I felt it was worth is... staying longer than the time switch thought appropriate for a stay in the loo. Thankfully it came on again without any problem by flicking the switch again!
Having still some time free, I hopped onto a passing riverbus, and journeyed to the east, where I hadn't been yet. Tyhe sunset was rather good, and I hope I got some good photos of the red sky behind the towers and spires. then I transferred to one coming back the other way, except it decided to go round the back of Dursduro, but with my trusty map and sense of direction, I was able to find my way back to the convent - and probably with a shorter walk than the stop I intended to get off at!
Sunday, March 12, 2006
Venice Part Five
After lunch, we had the afternoon free, so I went for a wander round by the Friary, by Rialto (where many small shops and market stalls are), and crossed the Rialto bridge over the Grand Canal. From there, a maze of streets, alleys and bridges lead towards St Mark's Square, where I was able to take a few photos. then I walked back towards the Accademie bridge, checking emails on the way. At Accademie, I took a few more photos, before returning to the convent.
Our next engagement was with Peter and Lady Rose, in their home in the world's first ghetto. Lady Rose is a member of the Mountstewart family from Strangford, but has lived in Venice for a long time. Her grandfather was Lord Londonderry, the first Minister of Education in the NI Parliament, and her ancestors include Castlereagh, who was involved in the Irish Act of Union 1800. Her bathroom contains an autographed picture of a famous politician, which I had to be shown! Peter is an authority on Venice, and they talked to us about its history, as well as what its like to live there now.
As we broke into smaller groups, Peter and the principal delved deep into Byzantine history and stayed there... until Alan decided it was time to leave!
It was getting late, so we walked back to the square where we had eaten on the first night, and found another restaurant. Having already eaten pizza today, it had to be spaghetti, of the bolognese variety. And so our second full day comes to an end.
Our next engagement was with Peter and Lady Rose, in their home in the world's first ghetto. Lady Rose is a member of the Mountstewart family from Strangford, but has lived in Venice for a long time. Her grandfather was Lord Londonderry, the first Minister of Education in the NI Parliament, and her ancestors include Castlereagh, who was involved in the Irish Act of Union 1800. Her bathroom contains an autographed picture of a famous politician, which I had to be shown! Peter is an authority on Venice, and they talked to us about its history, as well as what its like to live there now.
As we broke into smaller groups, Peter and the principal delved deep into Byzantine history and stayed there... until Alan decided it was time to leave!
It was getting late, so we walked back to the square where we had eaten on the first night, and found another restaurant. Having already eaten pizza today, it had to be spaghetti, of the bolognese variety. And so our second full day comes to an end.
Venice Part Four
This morning we had nothing on the agenda prior to church, so I managed to enjoy a lie in until 0930. We set off for church, getting breakfast on the way. The church had maybe 50 people present, for a service of 1662 Holy Communion. Alan said that some people come along as they're learning English and think it might help them, but I'm not sure how muhc the thee's and thou's would help!
The English Church isn't really like an Enclish church on the inside, being very simialr to the Venice churches we saw yesterday - a painting behind the 'altar' of Jesus, Moses and St George, and an elegant marble 'altar' up against the east wall.
The minister was dressed in an alb and chasuble, and the service was conducted with his back to the congregation, facing the 'altar' - more like a pre-Vatican II mass, than an Anglican Communion service. And it seemed to me that despite their great love of the 1662 BCP, many of the rubrics (the 'stage directions' and instructions for the minister and congregation) had been conveniently ignored - in celebrating with his back to the congregation, rather than from the north side, and in the use of wafers rather than bread.
The sermon wasn't bad, focusing on Romans 4, doing a fair job of talking about Abraham being justified by faith, and how we also need to be made right with God by faith in Jesus.
When it came to receiving Communion, we went up to the front, and knelt at the rail. Normally Communion rails are solid and fixed, but when we leaned on it, it shot forward... then another of our party came to the other end, and it rotated back towards us!
After the service, refreshments were available at the bacj, and we had an opportunity to tlak to some of the congregation. We then went for coffee down the street, and were joined by Lady Clark again, who seemed to be one of the Churchwardens.
On our way to lunch, we bumped into some of our African Anglican brothers, from Tanzania and Nigeria. They were coming from their service i Padova to the Church Council meeting in Venice.
Lunch was more pizza (yes, again), on the edge of Dursoduro, and was very good (salami and peppers). The sleet which had been falling before church was finished and the sun was out again. Still slightly cold, but at least sunny!
The English Church isn't really like an Enclish church on the inside, being very simialr to the Venice churches we saw yesterday - a painting behind the 'altar' of Jesus, Moses and St George, and an elegant marble 'altar' up against the east wall.
The minister was dressed in an alb and chasuble, and the service was conducted with his back to the congregation, facing the 'altar' - more like a pre-Vatican II mass, than an Anglican Communion service. And it seemed to me that despite their great love of the 1662 BCP, many of the rubrics (the 'stage directions' and instructions for the minister and congregation) had been conveniently ignored - in celebrating with his back to the congregation, rather than from the north side, and in the use of wafers rather than bread.
The sermon wasn't bad, focusing on Romans 4, doing a fair job of talking about Abraham being justified by faith, and how we also need to be made right with God by faith in Jesus.
When it came to receiving Communion, we went up to the front, and knelt at the rail. Normally Communion rails are solid and fixed, but when we leaned on it, it shot forward... then another of our party came to the other end, and it rotated back towards us!
After the service, refreshments were available at the bacj, and we had an opportunity to tlak to some of the congregation. We then went for coffee down the street, and were joined by Lady Clark again, who seemed to be one of the Churchwardens.
On our way to lunch, we bumped into some of our African Anglican brothers, from Tanzania and Nigeria. They were coming from their service i Padova to the Church Council meeting in Venice.
Lunch was more pizza (yes, again), on the edge of Dursoduro, and was very good (salami and peppers). The sleet which had been falling before church was finished and the sun was out again. Still slightly cold, but at least sunny!
Saturday, March 11, 2006
Venice Part Three
Moving on from lunch, we went to the Gallerie dell Accademie, the huge art museum. We started with a whistle-stop tour of the galleries with Martin showing us some highlights (he'd been there before), then a slower journey through, discussing some of the religious paintings on view. Not that the paintings were religious, but that they showed religious things! It being a Catholic place, lots of the pictures were of the Annunciation, the Pieta and the Coronation of Mary in heaven.
After the Gallerie, we had some free time, spent back at the convent relaxing and writing up the journal, then we ventured to the Friary to sit in on a mass. It was all completely over my head, being in Italian, but it was interesting to sit and watch the priest, server and congregation. The Friary itself is a huge building and was freezing!
We then went and had drinks, then dinner (another pizza, pepperoni this time). Oh, and we were overjoyed to hear the news of Ireland's rugby win!
I then wanted to check emails, but the internet cafe we went to had closed at 2000. so we headed on to St Mark's Square, the most famous part of Venice, and the big tourist trap. there weren't too many people about, and in the night time with the lights on, it looks so good. En route, we passed two concert halls with Vivaldi concerts (then passed the church he was the musician in), as well as an opera-singing busker! She had a backing tape playing on a stereo, and sang along - a much better class of busking than you would find in Belfast or Dublin!
We brought our evening to a close with yet more coffee (or coke in my case), and some lovely gelato (ice cream), and a walk back to the convent. Tomorrow we get a bit of a lie in before heading to the English church.
After the Gallerie, we had some free time, spent back at the convent relaxing and writing up the journal, then we ventured to the Friary to sit in on a mass. It was all completely over my head, being in Italian, but it was interesting to sit and watch the priest, server and congregation. The Friary itself is a huge building and was freezing!
We then went and had drinks, then dinner (another pizza, pepperoni this time). Oh, and we were overjoyed to hear the news of Ireland's rugby win!
I then wanted to check emails, but the internet cafe we went to had closed at 2000. so we headed on to St Mark's Square, the most famous part of Venice, and the big tourist trap. there weren't too many people about, and in the night time with the lights on, it looks so good. En route, we passed two concert halls with Vivaldi concerts (then passed the church he was the musician in), as well as an opera-singing busker! She had a backing tape playing on a stereo, and sang along - a much better class of busking than you would find in Belfast or Dublin!
We brought our evening to a close with yet more coffee (or coke in my case), and some lovely gelato (ice cream), and a walk back to the convent. Tomorrow we get a bit of a lie in before heading to the English church.
Venice Part Two
What a day of excitement and activity, and we're only halfway through! Due to my fondness and attachment to bed and sleeping in as long as I possibly can, I missed the first sightseeing - a 7am jaunt to St Mark's Square. Seemingly it is fantastic - I haven't encountered it yet.
So at 0815 we assembled in the front hall and set off for breakfast, almost beside where we dined for dinner last night. My non-coffee and rarely tea-drinking is making it interesting, as coffee is the staple diet of Venice, so this morning with my croissant I had a glass of warm, frothy milk. Then it was back to meet our first resident guide.
Lady Frances Clark is the widow of a former British ambassadior to Italy, but for the past 37 years has lived in Venice, helping the 'Venice in Peril' fund. Her tour was entitled 'My Dursoduro'. Perhaps this is the appropriate moment for some background.
The city of Venice is built on a series of inter-connected islands. Some are built on reclaimed land, which needs constant supervision and restoration, and some are on proper rock. Dursoduro, meaning hard back is safe enough, being on rock (so where we're staying won't be sinking!) Lady Clark lives on this part, and took us on a tour of this section of the city, mostly of churches in the area. Firstly, the Carmini, with its huge altars and statues and paintings (including one painting of cluds and angels on the ceiling, with a hole in the middle with more painted above on the next roof, giving the impression of inifinity and space). Another feature of this church was what looked like parking meters - insert your 50 cent coin, and the lights over one of the paintings would come on.
From there, we went to the church of the Angel Raphael, with more statues etc, and a back baptistry where some old lace robes and copes were on display. Then on to St Nicolas' which seemed to be older. Venice in Peril was marked with a plaque to celebrate their restoration work in the 1970s. This was needed because the church is surrounded by water on three sides. Here we had another special treat thanks to the Lady Clark connections - we were taken into a kitchen above and behind the sanctuary, where an ancient pectoral cross had been put on display for us. We were then taken up a few more steps to the original church/meeting room? where an old painting of the crucifixion had been partly restored on the wall.
We then headed back, calling in to St Sebastian's where Lady Clark got us in for free, by telling them we were clergy and seminarians. Here there were private side chapels up both sides as well as the main altar at the front. A new feature here was the organ doors which were t oclose over the pipes, but when open (as yesterday), revealed paintings on the 'inside'. The sacristy was covered, both walls and ceilings, with paintings of scenes and stories, for example, Jacob's dream, the baptism of Jesus and the crucifixion.
After a bit of a walk, we arrived at San Trovaso church, where a funeral was just drawing to a close. The man had been a champion rower in his time, and appropriately enough, with the service over, the coffin was brought out and put on the hearse - a motor boat with room for carrying the chief mourners. Two rowing teams on gondolas provided an escort for the hearse as it went off down the river to the Grand Canal and on towards the cemetery island. And in a continental expression of mourning and respect rarely seen in the UK (except, for example, the funerals of Princess Diana and George Best), the mourners applauded the coffin as it passed.
We stopped for a quick drink on the sunlit bridge beside the church before saying farewell to Lady Clark. With half an hour before lunch, we went on a bit of a walking tour of the eastern bit of Dursoduro, past the English Church (that is, the Anglican Church), and the Guggenheim modern art museum, to the church which dominates the southern skyline - Santa Maria della Salute. We didn't go in, not having much time, but lo and behold, I noticed a girl from Dromore going in, and thus it was proved that you can go nowhere without seeing someone you know!
We then came past the Galleria and into a cafe for lunch - vegetable soup and then pasta with bacon, onion and tomato sauce. It was all very good, but made me feel very full again... a constant feeling in Venice, it seems!
So at 0815 we assembled in the front hall and set off for breakfast, almost beside where we dined for dinner last night. My non-coffee and rarely tea-drinking is making it interesting, as coffee is the staple diet of Venice, so this morning with my croissant I had a glass of warm, frothy milk. Then it was back to meet our first resident guide.
Lady Frances Clark is the widow of a former British ambassadior to Italy, but for the past 37 years has lived in Venice, helping the 'Venice in Peril' fund. Her tour was entitled 'My Dursoduro'. Perhaps this is the appropriate moment for some background.
The city of Venice is built on a series of inter-connected islands. Some are built on reclaimed land, which needs constant supervision and restoration, and some are on proper rock. Dursoduro, meaning hard back is safe enough, being on rock (so where we're staying won't be sinking!) Lady Clark lives on this part, and took us on a tour of this section of the city, mostly of churches in the area. Firstly, the Carmini, with its huge altars and statues and paintings (including one painting of cluds and angels on the ceiling, with a hole in the middle with more painted above on the next roof, giving the impression of inifinity and space). Another feature of this church was what looked like parking meters - insert your 50 cent coin, and the lights over one of the paintings would come on.
From there, we went to the church of the Angel Raphael, with more statues etc, and a back baptistry where some old lace robes and copes were on display. Then on to St Nicolas' which seemed to be older. Venice in Peril was marked with a plaque to celebrate their restoration work in the 1970s. This was needed because the church is surrounded by water on three sides. Here we had another special treat thanks to the Lady Clark connections - we were taken into a kitchen above and behind the sanctuary, where an ancient pectoral cross had been put on display for us. We were then taken up a few more steps to the original church/meeting room? where an old painting of the crucifixion had been partly restored on the wall.
We then headed back, calling in to St Sebastian's where Lady Clark got us in for free, by telling them we were clergy and seminarians. Here there were private side chapels up both sides as well as the main altar at the front. A new feature here was the organ doors which were t oclose over the pipes, but when open (as yesterday), revealed paintings on the 'inside'. The sacristy was covered, both walls and ceilings, with paintings of scenes and stories, for example, Jacob's dream, the baptism of Jesus and the crucifixion.
After a bit of a walk, we arrived at San Trovaso church, where a funeral was just drawing to a close. The man had been a champion rower in his time, and appropriately enough, with the service over, the coffin was brought out and put on the hearse - a motor boat with room for carrying the chief mourners. Two rowing teams on gondolas provided an escort for the hearse as it went off down the river to the Grand Canal and on towards the cemetery island. And in a continental expression of mourning and respect rarely seen in the UK (except, for example, the funerals of Princess Diana and George Best), the mourners applauded the coffin as it passed.
We stopped for a quick drink on the sunlit bridge beside the church before saying farewell to Lady Clark. With half an hour before lunch, we went on a bit of a walking tour of the eastern bit of Dursoduro, past the English Church (that is, the Anglican Church), and the Guggenheim modern art museum, to the church which dominates the southern skyline - Santa Maria della Salute. We didn't go in, not having much time, but lo and behold, I noticed a girl from Dromore going in, and thus it was proved that you can go nowhere without seeing someone you know!
We then came past the Galleria and into a cafe for lunch - vegetable soup and then pasta with bacon, onion and tomato sauce. It was all very good, but made me feel very full again... a constant feeling in Venice, it seems!
Friday, March 10, 2006
Venice Part One
After classes (Church History and Systematics), the last bit of packing, a final dash to the shopping centre for necessary supplies (headphones and batteries for minidisc player and camera), it was off to the airport for the start of the big Venice adventure.
We had left about an hour to get around Dublin to the airport, and a good job too - an accident was making everything go very slow. But we made it to the fancy automated check-in with lots of time to spare. Through security (without beeping), then lunched on sandwiches at the departure gate.
The flight wasn't too bad, although June, wife of the Principal, and not a great flyer, was a bit uneasy, despite being well drugged on anti-sickness and sleep-inducing tablets! Thankfully I'm getting better at the whole flying lark, and don't notice the bumps and slight movements so much.
We landed in Venice in the dark (local time 1935), and in the rain. So not only would the 'streets' be flooded (as mum had so helpfully warned me), the bits above ground would also be wet. The bus took us into the city from the airport, but in Venice, wheeled vehicles can only go so far. If we were to go any further, it would be by waterbus or on Shanks' pony.
Having bought the travel value ticket, our introduction to Venice would be on the water, appropriately enough. The waterbus took us down the Grand Canal, past many impressive buildings rising up out of the water. The service was the slow one, which would have stopped at every hole in the hedge had there been hedges, but instead, stopped at every boatstop.
After about 25 minutes, we got to the stop we needed, and followed Alan, wjho took off at great speed down a tiny alleyway. At the other end, the alley opened on to Campo San Barnaba - an open square with an imposing church at one end. The church in question (San Barnaba, of course), is featured in Indiana Jones and the Holy Grail or as Alan described it, the one with Sean Connery in it. Seemingly Indie emerges from the sewer in front of the church before having a fight and dashing off. (I'll have to watch the film when I get home to check that!)
And just as Indie dashed off in the film, so we had a job keeping up with Alan who was away down another alley, then a sharp left down a smaller one (if that were possible), then over steps (over a tiny canal), and more steps to the right over the same canal, and there, we had arrived at the Convent we were staying in. The Convent is only staffed by a few nuns now, but they let out their rooms to female students at the university here, and have some rooms for tourists.
We had a few minutes to acclimatise in the enormous study bedrooms before heading out for drinks and then into a pizzeria for dinner. What a feast! I got a sort of a ham and mushroom pizza, which was folded in half with all the 'topping' inside - a bit like a Cornish pasty, only much bigger!
Then it was back to the room for some sleep before tomorrow's day of excitement and adventure as we go exploring, and meeting some of the members of the Anglican congregation.
We had left about an hour to get around Dublin to the airport, and a good job too - an accident was making everything go very slow. But we made it to the fancy automated check-in with lots of time to spare. Through security (without beeping), then lunched on sandwiches at the departure gate.
The flight wasn't too bad, although June, wife of the Principal, and not a great flyer, was a bit uneasy, despite being well drugged on anti-sickness and sleep-inducing tablets! Thankfully I'm getting better at the whole flying lark, and don't notice the bumps and slight movements so much.
We landed in Venice in the dark (local time 1935), and in the rain. So not only would the 'streets' be flooded (as mum had so helpfully warned me), the bits above ground would also be wet. The bus took us into the city from the airport, but in Venice, wheeled vehicles can only go so far. If we were to go any further, it would be by waterbus or on Shanks' pony.
Having bought the travel value ticket, our introduction to Venice would be on the water, appropriately enough. The waterbus took us down the Grand Canal, past many impressive buildings rising up out of the water. The service was the slow one, which would have stopped at every hole in the hedge had there been hedges, but instead, stopped at every boatstop.
After about 25 minutes, we got to the stop we needed, and followed Alan, wjho took off at great speed down a tiny alleyway. At the other end, the alley opened on to Campo San Barnaba - an open square with an imposing church at one end. The church in question (San Barnaba, of course), is featured in Indiana Jones and the Holy Grail or as Alan described it, the one with Sean Connery in it. Seemingly Indie emerges from the sewer in front of the church before having a fight and dashing off. (I'll have to watch the film when I get home to check that!)
And just as Indie dashed off in the film, so we had a job keeping up with Alan who was away down another alley, then a sharp left down a smaller one (if that were possible), then over steps (over a tiny canal), and more steps to the right over the same canal, and there, we had arrived at the Convent we were staying in. The Convent is only staffed by a few nuns now, but they let out their rooms to female students at the university here, and have some rooms for tourists.
We had a few minutes to acclimatise in the enormous study bedrooms before heading out for drinks and then into a pizzeria for dinner. What a feast! I got a sort of a ham and mushroom pizza, which was folded in half with all the 'topping' inside - a bit like a Cornish pasty, only much bigger!
Then it was back to the room for some sleep before tomorrow's day of excitement and adventure as we go exploring, and meeting some of the members of the Anglican congregation.
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